There are three ways to create the so-called starry sky.
The largest light points can be created by
recessing G4 socket fixtures into the ceiling.
This provides the strongest illumination and ensures that the light source can be removed from the fixture.
With this implementation method, we can decide whether the starry sky should consist of stars that only provide a faint glow or whether we actually want to see from it. The reason is that since the product has a socket, several different manufacturers produce G4 pin light sources in different designs. Of course, many of these would not fit into these small fixtures, or if they do fit, they are quite ugly. Everyone should decide for themselves what is acceptable in appearance alongside the larger light flux that comes with a larger size. To compensate for the larger size (usually meaning longer), it is very fortunate that there is an option for a fixture whose socket is not positioned at the plane of the plasterboard but recessed below (or above) it.
The two types of fixtures:
1 With LED light points:
Compared to the above DIP LEDs, the following SuperFlux LEDs are significantly smaller, making them look especially good in deeply recessed fixtures.
If we want more than just a starry night, we can compromise by putting stronger but unfortunately larger LEDs in the sockets:
In the upper picture, it is still pleasing, but in the picture below, it falls into the “oh no” category:
The traditional G4 pin 10 Watt halogen bulb imitation LED provides a quite decent appearance in the deeply recessed fixture, and even its brightness rivals that of a 15 Watt halogen miniature bulb:
Installing these fixtures is standard, just like installing MR16 spot fixtures. Wiring is done at the framework stage before plasterboarding. After fixing the plasterboard, pull the wires through the holes and connect them to the fixtures, then snap them into the holes. Provide an access point for the power supply.
The mentioned LEDs and light sources are available HERE.
The second method is when
the LED is integrated with the plasterboard cover and the wiring.
In this case, the installation of the LEDs and wiring must be done before fixing the plasterboard, or a sufficiently large cavity must be left above the plasterboard for access if you want to install it later.
IP68 waterproof 5mm DIP LED, in a stainless steel housing.
The IP protection only applies to the light source, not the connector elements.
Suitable for outdoor, indoor, and even wet areas for decorative purposes, creating a “starry sky” effect.
Each LED comes with 2x50cm wire pairs with quick connectors at the ends. Installation hole: 8mm.
- Minimal heat generation. Even with prolonged use, it remains touchable – it does not get hot at all!
- Not sensitive to switching.
- Requires assembly! (The LED should be placed in an 8mm hole, e.g., in plasterboard. The installer needs to provide additional terminal blocks, wires, and switches as required by the site-specific needs!)
- Requires 12Volt DC power supply.
- If you want to install it in a plasterboard ceiling, the holes must be prepared in advance, the LEDs threaded through, and only then can the plasterboard be fixed if it is not accessible afterward.
- If future maintenance needs to be ensured, the distance between successive light points should not exceed 45cm. This way, the LED can be pulled out of the plasterboard along with the connectors, and by disconnecting the connectors, individual LEDs can be replaced. However, the failure of these LEDs is highly unlikely, as they are low-power, non-overdriven types.
For installation:
- Disconnect the system from power.
- The light sources can be connected in a string with their connectors in the desired quantity.
- Connect the red wire of the LED to the “+” pole of the power supply and the black wire to the “-” pole.
- For simplicity, cut the free cable of the last spot and connect it to the power supply with a terminal block, allowing the use of the quick connector for the power supply as well.
- Then push the spots into the prepared holes.
- Use appropriate adhesive to secure them firmly.
- Connect the power supply to the mains, and then you can power the system.
- Installation should only be carried out by a professional.
- Do not use the LED spot in case of any external damage.
The third solution is
a central light source optical cable starry sky
setup. Its implementation is similar in that planning is required in advance, but instead of installing electrical wires and LEDs, optical cables are installed, and a single light source provides the light for the stars, potentially in multiple colors at once. This solution allows for the most creative implementations.
These can be either single-color or color-changing. Some change color simultaneously, while others change with a transition, unevenly. This most closely resembles the scintillation observed in the starry sky, that is, the uneven twinkling of stars due to the continuous changes in atmospheric conditions, causing the brightness of stars to change slightly irregularly. In the case of LEDs, this effect is achieved by either dividing the optical cable bundle into several parts, each with a separate LED light source, with an electronic controller changing their light at different rates, or by having a single light source with a larger cable bundle and a randomly perforated disc rotating between the LED and the cable end, resulting in irregular twinkling and color changes of the light points. The following is an example of the latter:
The set includes:
– a bundle of 90x 1mm x 1.5m and 10x 2mm x 1.5m optical cables,
– 1x 5W six-color LED light source with built-in rotating motor and controller,
– 4-button radio frequency remote control,
– 12Volt adapter
With 5W power consumption, it can be operated from 230 Volts via an adapter.
The light from a single central LED light source is transmitted to the desired location by 100 strands of 1.5-meter-long optical fiber.
Suitable only for decorative lighting, not for primary lighting purposes!
The 6 colors it can light up: cold white, yellow, green, sky blue, royal blue, purple (does not include red).
Installation Instructions:
Plug the adapter connector into the DC connectors on the metal housing of the light source, then plug the adapter into a socket. The product is now operational and can be used with its remote control. However, installing this product in the desired location requires significant assembly! On plasterboard or chipboard surfaces, drill up to 90 holes of 1mm and 10 holes of 2mm within a maximum radius of 1.4 meters in the desired pattern. Insert the optical cable ends from the back and fix the positions with glue. Bend the optical cable to the back of the board and secure it with adhesive tape. It is advisable to glue the optical cable into the hole with silicone in addition to the adhesive tape solution. The optical cable can protrude to the visible side, and in the case of plasterboard, trim the optical cable ends flush with the plasterboard surface after painting to avoid leaving paint on the cable ends. The controller remembers the last used lighting mode, so it continues to operate after a power outage when the power returns.
The challenge in installing the product is that the cable ends can theoretically be placed within a 7-square-meter area, but this can only be done from the opposite side of the suspended ceiling. Additionally, the 100 optical fibers are bundled together at the LED end, not in a modular system. Therefore, for ceiling lighting, the installation must be done either between the installed plasterboard and the actual ceiling or by pre-wiring the desired square meter area with optical cables and then fixing it as a complete unit.
The device housing includes a DIP switch array. With various combinations, you can set 7 different rotation speeds or turn off the motor rotation. If you turn off the motor here, you cannot turn it back on with the remote control. This is significant if you only want to light with a pre-selected fixed color and do not want to accidentally change it with the remote control. In this case, you can even forget about the remote control and use a simple wall switch to turn the power on and off. When setting the color change to half a turn per minute, it cannot be stopped; the rotation remains continuous.
Using the DIP switches on the device housing, you can set the motor rotation between half a turn and 6 turns per minute. The disadvantage of this setting is that you must decide in advance. Later, during daily use, you cannot change this with the remote control. The table below illustrates the combinations:
Do not remove the device casing! If you are curious about what is inside, you can see it in the picture below or watch the video above.
Usage:
The communication between the remote control and the receiver is radio frequency, allowing the signal to pass through thinner objects. For improved communication, the remote control features a retractable mini antenna to enhance reception. If the LED does not respond to a button press on the remote control, it may be due to poor reception or a drained battery. The battery drain is not covered under warranty, and its replacement is the user’s responsibility. The coiled wire protruding from the LED housing is the controller’s antenna. Do not remove it! Instead, straighten it after installing the LED in its fixed location for better reception.
The top two buttons on the remote control allow for brightness adjustment in 6 levels.
The lock button is the on/off switch, while the stop button can stop or start the color change. This latter function only works if the DIP switch settings mentioned above allow for this mode.
If you wish to control the lighting with a wall switch, set the desired lighting mode with the remote control (and DIP switches), leave it on with the remote control, then store the remote. From then on, the wall switch will always operate it in the mode set by the remote.