LED strips most commonly operate on 12V DC, but there are also versions that operate on 24V and 230V. Sticking with the most common type, you will need a power supply that outputs 12V DC. To find out exactly which one to choose, you can refer to HERE.
Of course, you can also operate a shorter LED strip from a 12V battery as long as the battery lasts, or from an accumulator. However, be careful with the accumulator, as the LED strip does not tolerate overvoltage, and a fully charged accumulator can exceed 14V, which will cause the LED strip to fail prematurely. Therefore, when installed in a vehicle or operated from an accumulator, always use a voltage regulator. Such voltage regulators can be purchased from auto parts stores.
So, if you have a power supply of the appropriate power rating for your LED strip, and the LED strip has a DC Jane power connector, you can simply stick the LED strip in the desired location, plug the connector into the power supply, plug the power supply into the socket, and you’re good to go. If you don’t want the lights on, simply unplug it. This is a simple solution for LED implementation. Naturally, ensure that the power cable at the end of the strip does not pull on the LED strip, as this will cause the LED strip to detach from the adhesive surface. For indoor use, stick it to a dry, well-adhering surface in a moisture-free environment. For higher brightness strips, not only a well-adhering surface is needed but also good heat dissipation. Therefore, and for better appearance, the use of an LED profile might be necessary. The LED profile is mostly made of aluminum with some sort of transparent or semi-transparent cover element. Its essence, beyond aesthetics, is to act as a good heat conductor to dissipate the heat produced by the LED strip. Cooler environments increase the lifespan of LEDs, while heat shortens it. LED profiles are available for simple surface mounting, recessed mounting, corner elements, step lighting, etc.
If you do not want to unplug the power supply from the socket to turn the strip on or off, you can place a switch between the strip and the adapter. If you want not only to switch it on and off but also to adjust the brightness, you can add an inline dimmer.
For a truly refined installation, instead of using an adapter, use a LED driver that is permanently wired to the electrical network and hide the power supply in the wall, inside a cabinet cavity, or behind drywall. This way, you can turn your LED strip on and off with a conventional wall switch. If you want to adjust the brightness, there are wall switch dimmers available, some of which come with a remote control, allowing you to operate it both from the wall and remotely.
If you want to adjust the brightness with a wall switch that matches the style of your other switches or perhaps control the same LED strip from multiple locations, there is also a solution. Buy a monostable toggle switch (like a doorbell switch, but without the bell symbol) from your preferred switch family in the required quantity and a specifically designed dimmable power supply.
If the dimmers cannot handle the consumption of the number of LED strips you want to dim simultaneously, you can get a signal amplifier. The signal amplifier takes the signal (voltage value) from the LED strip controlled by the dimmer and applies it to a new group of LED strips powered through the amplifier, possibly with a separate power supply. This new group will light up with the same brightness as the previous one and adjust according to the dimmer’s settings.
It’s important to know that a 12V LED strip can be cut every 3 LEDs, and a 24V LED strip can be cut every 6 LEDs at the marked points, according to your installation needs and preferences.
The cut ends can be connected using connectors, fixed connectors, flexible connectors, and splitter elements. However, not all connectors or elements are suitable for every LED strip. LED strips come in different widths, such as 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm, requiring connectors of corresponding widths. The width of the connector must match the width of the strip, though the total width of the connector is greater. This is crucial because LED profiles also come in various widths. Some profiles can accommodate only 8mm wide strips, some 10mm, and others up to 12mm or even 24mm for double rows. Obviously, a 10mm wide LED strip fits into a profile designed for 10mm strips, BUT THE CONNECTOR IS WIDER, SO YOU CAN’T USE A CONNECTOR OR JOINING ELEMENT WITHIN THE LED PROFILE. This means that you will need to solder here. Soldering the wires to the cut surfaces is the most space-saving and reliable electrical connection, while clip-on or plug-in connectors are more for convenience. Another reason to solder is that even if the connector fits the strip size-wise, if the LEDs are placed too densely near the cut edge, there won’t be enough space to use the connector, leaving soldering as the only option. Additionally, if the manufacturer has placed a bridging or resistor close to the cutting point, it may also prevent the use of connectors.
For outdoor types, i.e., LED strips encased in a silicone tube, end caps are available separately for sealing the cut ends. Ensuring the waterproof seal at the ends and electrical connections is the task of the installer. The installer can use silicone adhesive, sealant, or heat shrink tubing to ensure water tightness. It’s important to note that LED strips encased in silicone have poor heat dissipation, so they should only be used where necessary for protection against moisture, rain, or pool water. For design purposes, it is better to use LED profiles. Most outdoor types also come with 3M double-sided adhesive tape. However, this is insufficient for outdoor use, especially in pools. Some series include silicone clips with the outdoor LED strips. By drilling and nailing these silicone clips to the desired location, the LED strip can be secured even in outdoor conditions. However, this may not always be visually appealing, and in ceiling installations, the segments between the securing clips might come loose over time. Considering all these factors, embedding the strip in sealant might provide the most durable solution for outdoor or pool use.
The above article provides an overview of the implementation options for single-color LED strips, but the control of RGB (color-changing) LED strips, DRGB (digital RGB), i.e., running light LED strips, and analog running light LED strips offers even more variation possibilities.